Ever since Hindoostane Coffee House first opened its doors to Georgian London in 1810, curry has been a prominent feature of the UK’s restaurant scene. With chicken tikka massala having overtaken fish and chips as our national dish, and around 12,000 curry houses in the UK, it’s clear we can’t get enough of Indian food. But where to go for something special, for award-winning South Asian food that’s not just superbly cooked, but also offers unusual and innovative dishes created from locally sourced yet authentic ingredients?
If you’re thinking London, you need to set your sat nav farther south. The winner of this year’s coveted Newby Teas Tiffin Cup for Best South Asian Restaurant is Jewel in the Crown in Swindon. A family business for over 23 years, the restaurant was nominated by Swindon South MP Robert Buckland and beat off no fewer than 64 other MP nominated Indian restaurants across England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland to make it to the grand final. Held at Bellamy’s restaurant in the Houses of Parliament, each of the 11 finalists had just one hour to cook their chosen dish, judged by a celebrity panel which included Ainsley Harriott, Masterchef 2010 winner Dhruv Baker, Celebrity Masterchef 2010 winner Lisa Faulkner, and Hardeep Singh Kohli. So is a trip to Swindon and negotiating its infamous ‘magic roundabout’ worth it?
On a cold, dank November evening (or any other for that matter) I need no persuading to eat Indian food. The prospect of award-winning Indian food is surely heaven. A self-confessed potato junkie equally addicted to chillies, for me it’s the ultimate comfort food. It’s all in the subtle flavours and aromas, combined with different textures and colours, mouth-wateringly rich sauces, and of course the tremendous variety.
From the moment you arrive at Jewel in the Crown, you know it’s not just any Indian restaurant. Impressive, palatial chandeliers suspended from elaborate gilt ceilings (designed by the owner Muzammil Ali and inspired by the plasterwork at Buckingham Palace, no less) beckon you in, conspiring with equally regal red furnishings and elegant large gilt mirrors to enhance the light and spacious interior. Even before you take your seat at one of the formal linen-clad tables, you’re struck by the sense of occasion. The opulence and grandeur of the setting would easily befit a wedding party (there’s also an additional downstairs dining room and bar). Yet even mid-week on a winter’s evening the tables are well populated, and as I eavesdrop it’s clear there are many contented regulars among the couples and groups of businessmen, many of whom congratulate Mr Ali on the recent award. You can tell their warmth is genuine.
I don’t eat lamb and my partner is pescetarian, so we don’t opt for the winning seasonal curry (a rich dish of lamb, pumpkin and spices), but there’s no shortage to choose from on the main menu which reflects the cuisine of the many and diverse regions of India (the chefs themselves recruited from different areas, bringing their own distinct styles and specialities with them). Having opted for a tasting selection of king prawn dishes (garlic massala, Jalfreizi and Goan massala) and our favourite rice and vegetable accompaniments, a few moments later I learn from Juliana, Mr Ali’s daughter who manages the restaurant, that the chefs are preparing a bespoke version of their winning dish using prawns instead of lamb. For a fleeting moment I consider that we should probably cancel one of the dishes, mindful of volume. But my taste buds are already tingling in anticipation as we eye up the table next to us and the thought goes no further.
The generously sized king prawn puri starter is just the protein rush I need after a hectic day with no lunch. The prawns are beautifully cooked and bursting with flavour in the rich sauce, and you can really taste the freshly-ground spices – there’s no dumbing down here. Combined with a glass of good organic Rioja and the soothing rhythms of soft traditional Indian music, I can already feel the tension leaving my shoulders.
The main courses arrive served in the authentic, full-sized balti dishes they were cooked in, still sizzling and with all the flavours sealed in, not transferred to small dishes just for convenience. In terms of both taste and presentation there’s no better way of presenting Indian food, and I don’t know whether it’s just me but there’s something wonderfully decadent about eating ‘straight from the pan’.
While we inspect our miniature banquet, I temporarily forget all about our pumpkin dish. Moments later, there is no missing it. An exquisitely carved giant pumpkin processes through the restaurant and as it’s ceremoniously presented to the table, myself and all my fellow diners draw breath. The presentation is quite simply stunning. Decorated with painstakingly hand-carved stylized flowers and hand shapes, the hollowed-out squash opens to reveal its hidden secret, a deliciously warming curry of pumpkin and prawns in subtle spices. The dish is quite different from what I had imagined, the textures more interesting and complex, the pumpkin neither too soft nor too crunchy, satisfying and somehow soothing. As I savour the flavours, I can imagine how well the rich earthiness of the lamb must complement the sweetness of the pumpkin. I can also see it working equally well as a vegetarian dish, the pumpkin is robust and works so well with the spices, without being too fibrous or overly sweet. Although overshadowed in stature, our king prawn dishes are no less flavoursome and cooked to perfection, the variety of sauces with their contrasting flavours making for a delightful feast.
Given the vast heritage and tradition of Indian cuisine, how do you create an innovative dish that stays true to classic Indian recipes, and yet give it a modern twist, a dish that delights in creative presentation as much as in taste? I learn from Juliana that their lamb and pumpkin curry takes its inspiration from her favourite food as a child, made at home by her mother – like so many classic dishes the world over. Grown at nearby Roves Farm, the pumpkins are hand-picked, and the lamb is similarly Wiltshire-reared. So passionate are the team about locally sourced and produced food in fact, that the only ingredients which aren’t local are some of the special herbs and spices that come direct from Bangladesh.
Despite being faced with an undoubtedly difficult choice, it’s easy to see why the judges were unanimous in their decision to award the 2010 Tiffin Cup to Jewel in the Crown. Not only is the dish they have created stunning both in presentation and taste, their passion for food is palpable. The same care and attention bestowed on each pumpkin carving goes into their food and service.
So next week, take a visit to Swindon and celebrate National Curry Week and 200 years of Indian food in the UK in style. The Jewel in the Crown is more than worth the detour, and you may find yourself going back for many weeks to come.
Selection from the Menu:
King prawn puri £3.90, Seasonal lamb and pumpkin curry £9.95 approx (exact price tbc), King prawn Jalfrezi £10.50, Garlic king prawn massala £9.50, Goan king prawn massala £9.50, Aloo gobi £2.90, Mushroom rice £2.50, Spanish Gran Espiral Organic Rioja £11.95
Jewel in the Crown, 14/16 Victoria Road, Swindon, Wiltshire SN1 3AL, Tel: +44 (0)1793 522687, Email: jewel_inthecrown@yahoo.co.uk, www.jewelinthecrown.co.uk
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