In London Chinese New Year, also known as the Spring Festival, celebrations are traditionally on the first Sunday after New Year’s Day (6 February), but you don’t have to be in Chinatown to celebrate. If you’re planning on being in the Guildford area on Sunday you should book a table at the Beijing now.
Situated in a large renovated pub in a residential area on the outskirts of the city, The Beijing opened its doors in August 2010. A family-run business with a sister restaurant in Horsell, it has been designed by manager Tammy Wong to dramatic effect.
An illuminated water feature greets you as you enter, setting the tone for what’s to come. The interior, with a striking bar, bold bamboo print wallpaper, ambient lighting and neon colour-changing chandeliers, is no shrinking violet and yet manages to be intimate. The large space accommodates several private dining areas, some separated by autumnal leaf frosted glass, while the smartly laid, crisp linen-clad tables are well spaced for privacy. The atmosphere is relaxed, and service attentive and efficient. Only the occasional burst of birthday music for celebrating parties seems incongruous.
We choose from an impressive list of starters that takes in New Zealand mussels with black beans and chilli, Mongolian aromatic lamb, and deep fried spiced salt aubergine, and after some indecision opt for the hot seafood hors d’oeuvres, comprising king prawns in various guises – satay, dumplings, and golden vermicelli – together with spiced salt squid and ‘seaweed’ (deep fried spring greens). Squid isn’t my thing so we ask to substitute for tempura prawns, and are accommodated graciously. We’re also pleased to see a cocktail list and our Singapore Slings with unpuritanical measures of cherry brandy don’t disappoint.
It’s hard to say which hors d’oeuvre satisfied most. In each case the seafood was wonderfully fresh and every piece as hot and perfectly cooked as the last. But the tempura prawns with their wonderfully fluffy batter probably stole the show, with the delicately flavoured prawn dumplings coming in a close second.
In the spirit of sharing plates, I find it tempting to order for a party of ten rather than two, so when it comes to ordering our ‘main’ course it’s alien to me to restrict myself to one. After much deliberation over whole sea bass and dover sole, thankfully Tammy reins me in (warning me that portion sizes are generous), and my resolve fixes on lobster with ginger and spring onions, while Robert opts for king prawns with green peppers in black bean sauce, with sides of pak choy with oyster sauce and plain rice. The lobster is stunning. Whole, succulent, expertly cooked, and it could not have been fresher if we’d been by the sea. Equally importantly it’s not overpowered by the sauce. And yes, Tammy was right, very generous too, not to mention excellent value. The fresh gooseberry flavour of the very reasonably priced Pouilly-Fumé with just a hint of green pepper is the perfect accompaniment.
Having taken time to do my lobster justice, and given Robert a helping hand with his black bean prawns despite his protests, I have just enough room for a comforting sesame-coated toffee apple dessert and jasmine tea and take time to ponder our fellow guests – predominantly couples and family gatherings, with a few business meetings dotted here and there. Although it’s a grey and indifferent Monday in mid-November, there’s a real buzz about the place. Understandably, it’s the best Chinese food I’ve eaten outside London in a very long time.
Beijing Restaurant, 132 Worplesdon Road, Guilford GU2 9RT, Tel: 01483 538333/538122, www.beijingrestaurant.co.uk
Selection: Hot Seafood Hors D’oeuvres £8.50 per person, Tempura Prawns (5) £6.30, Fresh Lobster in Shell with Ginger and Spring Onions £25 (or market price), King Prawns with Green Peppers in Black Bean Sauce £8.80, Boiled Rice £3.60, Toffee Apple £3.40, Jasmine Tea £1.90, Singapore Sling £6.45, Pouilly-Fumé La Ralotte Adrien Maréchal £25
Set menus range from £18.50 per person to £27.50
Chinese New Year: On 6 February a special New Year set menu will be available, priced at £40.50 per person. Booking is essential
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