Hotel Review: Lime Wood and Herb House Spa, Hampshire, Posted 8 February 2011

Melissa de Carteret spends a restorative weekend at newly renovated Lime Wood Hotel in Hampshire’s New Forest


When they tell you it’s in the woods – the magnificent setting of the 37,000-acre New Forest National Park to be exact – they mean it. As you leave the small town of Lyndhurst and make your way down the track, you soon find yourself negotiating cattle and shaggy-haired ponies, the hardy type you only find on moors, which are invariably indifferent to motor cars. From there it’s just a short distance to the hotel gates, and the sweeping drive with its equestrian-themed ‘easy now’ signs which delivers your first view of Lime Wood’s Regency splendour.

After an extensive refurbishment and five-year closure – not so much a facelift as an A celeb full body lift – Lime Wood has reopened its doors to reveal a thoroughly modern and luxurious manor house, complete with state-of-the-art Herb House Spa, the first outside Daylesford to offer Bamford Body treatments.

The only five-star hotel in the area, set in extensive gardens and grounds that adjoin both the forest and parkland, its history dates back to the 13th century when it was originally established as a hunting lodge. The renovation (by the architects who worked on Highgrove) is mindful of that heritage, striking a balance between high luxury and relaxed enjoyment, with immaculate attention to detail but nothing overdone. New red-brick buildings (incorporating many of the 14 bedrooms and 15 suites, as well as the spa) have been cleverly integrated with the original Georgian house, and classically designed interiors make the most of local materials like ash and stone, from a subtle palette that blends in effortlessly with the natural surroundings. Log fires and under-floor heating combine old and new, while the furniture is an eclectic mix of antique and bespoke, with objets d’art, oak leaf chandeliers and eccentric touches that make you forget you’re in a hotel. Not to mention an impressive modern art collection.

If your pockets are deep, Pavilion 1 is for you. The two New England-style duplex Pavilion suites are separate from the main house and perfect for honeymooners or those craving a leafy weekend retreat. Dominated by a dramatic black-vaulted ceiling, the large bedroom is high on romance and reminiscent of a medieval star chamber, its tones subtly changing at night to celestial effect as you flop into your modern four-poster. The free-standing bath is separate from the main bathroom, overlooking ancient trees and the fields beyond through large windows which, in interior designer speak, bring the outside in. To add to the luxury, there’s not just one real fire but two, both duly lit by country-clad staff on our arrival – the second in our downstairs living and dining room, off which we discover an additional single bedroom. The bedrooms in the main house are rather less distinctive but no less luxurious, the bathrooms decked out in elegant Italian marble. Rooms 1 and 2 have bathtubs beneath wide sash windows, while Room 11 has an especially large bathroom and double basins. All rooms are equipped with an iPad.

There are two restaurants, both of which welcome children, and a charming Mediterranean-style courtyard with box trees, dominated by the warm colours of the Portland stone. As if by magic, a retractable glass roof transports you al fresco. The informal whitewashed Scullery is bright and airy with a large fireplace and spit, and delivers superb and substantial breakfasts and an all-day menu that includes intriguing desserts based on historic recipes (Nell Heaton’s Queen of Puddings, orange and passion fruit flummery), as well as child-friendly favourites like beans on toast. All manner of locally sourced and forest-foraged goodies (girolles, dried and pickled penny buns) are also available for sale in hand-labelled jars on the dressers. While the elegant ash-panelled Dining Room (recently awarded 3 Rosettes by the AA) is more formal but unstuffy, with carved chandeliers and snug banquettes, the setting for Michelin-starred chef Luke Holder’s imaginative fine-dining menus. Small groups can also take in the kitchen theatre first-hand from the Chef’s Table.

For the energetic, the Boot Room’s neat rows of Hunter wellies in all colours and sizes beckon to the great outdoors. If you fancy playing lord of the manor, shooting and horse riding are available nearby, as well as sailing, while indoor pastimes are catered for in the Cellar, complete with billiards table and vast flatscreen television, and an impressive view of the wine vaults. For those inspired by the flora and fauna guides by their bedside, foraging master classes are available. In addition to truffle hunting, dedicated forager Garry Eveleigh will teach you the difference between an edible variety of mushroom and its evil twin, or introduce you to purslane at the nearby marshes.

For the time being I prefer to busy myself doing nothing, so we take afternoon tea – plus champagne – in the Library, a snug, cosy space filled with the scent of the log fire and bookshelves stacked with books you actually want to read. Our fellow guests in the adjoining lemon, lilac and mint walled sitting rooms are a mixture of ladies who do tea, couples celebrating anniversaries and the first of some well-heeled arrivals escaping the city. Mindful of dinner we’re uncharacteristically sensible and share a single portion of  exquisite confections and finger sandwiches, although I can’t resist an extra order of crab on granary, to my delight the generous white and brown meat mixed with finely chopped spring onion and herbs. Sliding deliciously into a sugar coma, I plan the remains of the day and peruse the Herb House spa menu.

As well as Bamford products, there is Tri-Dosha (a luxurious take on Ayurveda), NUDE (founded by Fresh & Wild founder Bryan Meehan and Ali Hewson, wife of Bono) and Voya. Among the treatments, ‘Forest Dream’ promises the ultimate Ayurvedic tension-releasing massage, requiring two therapists (£215), while for couples there’s ‘Together in the Forest’, an indulgent 3½ hour mud massage after which you and your partner relax together in your private hot tub and steam room (£380).

As I’m short on time I opt for a more modestly priced Bamford neck and back massage and having donned a taupe honeycomb kimono and disposable slippers, head over to meet Caroline, my Belgium-born therapist. Radiating calm she puts me at ease immediately and I ponder how many sessions might be required to match her glowing skin. Face down on the electronically warmed bed I breathe in geranium oil, combined with soothing lavender and peppermint and within minutes can feel the tension in my neck receding. We talk like old friends, covering everything from dieting, nutrition and skincare, to stress, being a control freak and the fact I’ve brought my iPhone with me.

Designed over three levels, the Herb House Spa is warm, fresh and inviting with honey-coloured oak, and limestone floors. In addition to the 16m pool with retractable glass doors to the garden, there’s a Technogym, Mud House, a hydropool and a massive glass-fronted sauna and Hot Pool overlooking the forest. The ten treatment rooms include two doubles, each with its own private steam room and an indoor and outdoor garden bath respectively. The changing rooms are boudoir-like with private bathrooms, soft lighting and flattering mirrors – no fun-fair effects that make you run for cover. But its crowning glory is surely its ‘living roof’, a stroll-through herbary roof garden and meditation area planted with all manner of herbs for use both in the spa and kitchens, that’s also perfect for pre- or post-treatment lounging. If the nurturing herbal aromas and uplifting sylvan views don’t make your shoulders drop, the chances are nothing will.

The holistic approach to well-being continues in my favourite part of the spa – the fabulous Raw & Cure Bar, which serves everything from fresh smoothies, imaginatively prepared salads, and salmon and cured ham from Lime Wood’s own Smoke House (a quaint restored building near the lake), to cupcakes, cocktails and champagne, including award-winning ‘Cornish Champagne’ from Bob Lindo’s Camel Valley winery. It’s as much about pampering and pleasure as it is about health, without so much as a whiff of virtuous self-denial.

At dinner, after a pre-requisite cocktail in the smart bar, an original Cocteau oversees proceedings. Chef Luke Holder is passionate about local and organic produce and the menu is bursting with forest food (roasted fillet of brill with black figs, bacon and fresh forest hazelnuts), local venison (new house game fallow venison with organic beetroot coffee and basil) and home-reared beef and lamb.

I join Robert in the seven-course vegetarian tasting menu, kicking off with a stylish amuse bouche of warm beetroot velouté, celeriac ravioli, hazelnut purée and curly kale, served on warm slate and accompanied by an unusually textured cabbage bread with a delicious flavour that reminds me of seaweed. Our first course is a delicate salad of violet artichokes paired with a sauvignon blanc chosen by John (our ebullient and very knowledgeable sommelier), followed by creamy polenta and autumn truffle. Next there’s a beautiful but perhaps overly ethereal dish of sweet carrot (a substitute for the billed butternut squash, roasted with pickled trompette de la mort and salted seeds), and finally a deliciously silky and perfectly al dente risotto with forest foraged mushrooms and roasted hazelnuts. Exquisitely crafted and capturing the colours and earthiness of autumn, it’s woodland on a plate. Dorset cheese precedes a refreshing ‘sweet fix’ of lychee with lemongrass foam, the perfect pre-dessert before we embark on our final course, a substantial hazelnut and chocolate Aero with blackberry compote and lemon balm cress.

Everything about Lime Wood is high-end and unsurprisingly, given its pedigree and proximity to London, it has quickly acquired a stellar following. Model-turned-food-writer Sophie Dahl and jazz writer Jamie Cullum tied the knot here in 2010; Jamie helped to choose its grand piano. But beyond its unique location, excellent food, slick service and quintessential Britishness, what makes it truly special is its quality and attention to detail. As the red brick weathers, this smart and sophisticated bolthole will just keep getting better and better.

Room Rates: £225–£725 (excluding breakfast)
Breakfast: Continental £12.50, Full English £16.50
Dinner: Seven-Course Tasting Menu: £70, £119 including sommelier’s wine pairing, Coffee with Petits Fours: £4.50 (all exc. service)
A la carte Lunch and Dinner: £40 (2 courses), £50 (3 courses)
 Afternoon Tea: £21.50
 Bamford Neck and Back Massage (30 minutes): £50
 Lime Wood, Beaulieu Road, Lyndhurst, Hampshire SO43 7FZ
Tel: +44 (0) 23 8028 7177, Fax: +44 (0) 23 8028 7199, Email: info@limewood.co.uk
www.limewoodhotel.co.uk

Restaurant Review: The Beijing, Guildford, Posted 3 February 2011

If 2011 has lost its shine and good intentions have gone out of the window, you don’t have to wait eleven months to celebrate all things new. Based on the lunar calendar, Chinese New Year starts on 3 February and this year rings in the Year of the Rabbit. Kung Hei Fat Choy!


In London Chinese New Year, also known as the Spring Festival, celebrations are traditionally on the first Sunday after New Year’s Day (6 February), but you don’t have to be in Chinatown to celebrate. If you’re planning on being in the Guildford area on Sunday you should book a table at the Beijing now.

Situated in a large renovated pub in a residential area on the outskirts of the city, The Beijing opened its doors in August 2010. A family-run business with a sister restaurant in Horsell, it has been designed by manager Tammy Wong to dramatic effect.

An illuminated water feature greets you as you enter, setting the tone for what’s to come. The interior, with a striking bar, bold bamboo print wallpaper, ambient lighting and neon colour-changing chandeliers, is no shrinking violet and yet manages to be intimate. The large space accommodates several private dining areas, some separated by autumnal leaf frosted glass, while the smartly laid, crisp linen-clad tables are well spaced for privacy. The atmosphere is relaxed, and service attentive and efficient. Only the occasional burst of birthday music for celebrating parties seems incongruous.

We choose from an impressive list of starters that takes in New Zealand mussels with black beans and chilli, Mongolian aromatic lamb, and deep fried spiced salt aubergine, and after some indecision opt for the hot seafood hors d’oeuvres, comprising king prawns in various guises – satay, dumplings, and golden vermicelli – together with spiced salt squid and ‘seaweed’ (deep fried spring greens). Squid isn’t my thing so we ask to substitute for tempura prawns, and are accommodated graciously. We’re also pleased to see a cocktail list and our Singapore Slings with unpuritanical measures of cherry brandy don’t disappoint.

It’s hard to say which hors d’oeuvre satisfied most. In each case the seafood was wonderfully fresh and every piece as hot and perfectly cooked as the last. But the tempura prawns with their wonderfully fluffy batter probably stole the show, with the delicately flavoured prawn dumplings coming in a close second.

In the spirit of sharing plates, I find it tempting to order for a party of ten rather than two, so when it comes to ordering our ‘main’ course it’s alien to me to restrict myself to one. After much deliberation over whole sea bass and dover sole, thankfully Tammy reins me in (warning me that portion sizes are generous), and my resolve fixes on lobster with ginger and spring onions, while Robert opts for king prawns with green peppers in black bean sauce, with sides of pak choy with oyster sauce and plain rice. The lobster is stunning. Whole, succulent, expertly cooked, and it could not have been fresher if we’d been by the sea. Equally importantly it’s not overpowered by the sauce. And yes, Tammy was right, very generous too, not to mention excellent value. The fresh gooseberry flavour of the very reasonably priced Pouilly-Fumé with just a hint of green pepper is the perfect accompaniment.

Having taken time to do my lobster justice, and given Robert a helping hand with his black bean prawns despite his protests, I have just enough room for a comforting sesame-coated toffee apple dessert and jasmine tea and take time to ponder our fellow guests – predominantly couples and family gatherings, with a few business meetings dotted here and there. Although it’s a grey and indifferent Monday in mid-November, there’s a real buzz about the place. Understandably, it’s the best Chinese food I’ve eaten outside London in a very long time.

Beijing Restaurant, 132 Worplesdon Road, Guilford GU2 9RT, Tel: 01483 538333/538122, www.beijingrestaurant.co.uk

Selection: Hot Seafood Hors D’oeuvres £8.50 per person, Tempura Prawns (5) £6.30, Fresh Lobster in Shell with Ginger and Spring Onions £25 (or market price), King Prawns with Green Peppers in Black Bean Sauce £8.80, Boiled Rice £3.60, Toffee Apple £3.40, Jasmine Tea £1.90, Singapore Sling £6.45, Pouilly-Fumé La Ralotte Adrien Maréchal £25
Set menus range from £18.50 per person to £27.50

Chinese New Year:  On 6 February a special New Year set menu will be available, priced at £40.50 per person. Booking is essential

Restaurant Review: Jewel in the Crown, Swindon, Wiltshire, Posted 22 November 2010

With the annual celebration of Indian cuisine upon us (this year marking the 200th anniversary of Indian food in the UK, National Curry Week, 21–27 November), where’s the best restaurant to enjoy outstanding Indian dishes? Melissa de Carteret reviews Jewel in the Crown, Swindon, Winner of the Newby Teas Tiffin Cup 2010 for Best South Asian Restaurant


Ever since Hindoostane Coffee House first opened its doors to Georgian London in 1810, curry has been a prominent feature of the UK’s restaurant scene. With chicken tikka massala having overtaken fish and chips as our national dish, and around 12,000 curry houses in the UK, it’s clear we can’t get enough of Indian food. But where to go for something special, for award-winning South Asian food that’s not just superbly cooked, but also offers unusual and innovative dishes created from locally sourced yet authentic ingredients?

If you’re thinking London, you need to set your sat nav farther south. The winner of this year’s coveted Newby Teas Tiffin Cup for Best South Asian Restaurant is Jewel in the Crown in Swindon. A family business for over 23 years, the restaurant was nominated by Swindon South MP Robert Buckland and beat off no fewer than 64 other MP nominated Indian restaurants across England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland to make it to the grand final. Held at Bellamy’s restaurant in the Houses of Parliament, each of the 11 finalists had just one hour to cook their chosen dish, judged by a celebrity panel which included Ainsley Harriott, Masterchef 2010 winner Dhruv Baker, Celebrity Masterchef 2010 winner Lisa Faulkner, and Hardeep Singh Kohli. So is a trip to Swindon and negotiating its infamous ‘magic roundabout’ worth it?

On a cold, dank November evening (or any other for that matter) I need no persuading to eat Indian food. The prospect of award-winning Indian food is surely heaven. A self-confessed potato junkie equally addicted to chillies, for me it’s the ultimate comfort food. It’s all in the subtle flavours and aromas, combined with different textures and colours, mouth-wateringly rich sauces, and of course the tremendous variety.

From the moment you arrive at Jewel in the Crown, you know it’s not just any Indian restaurant. Impressive, palatial chandeliers suspended from elaborate gilt ceilings (designed by the owner Muzammil Ali and inspired by the plasterwork at Buckingham Palace, no less) beckon you in, conspiring with equally regal red furnishings and elegant large gilt mirrors to enhance the light and spacious interior. Even before you take your seat at one of the formal linen-clad tables, you’re struck by the sense of occasion. The opulence and grandeur of the setting would easily befit a wedding party (there’s also an additional downstairs dining room and bar). Yet even mid-week on a winter’s evening the tables are well populated, and as I eavesdrop it’s clear there are many contented regulars among the couples and groups of businessmen, many of whom congratulate Mr Ali on the recent award.  You can tell their warmth is genuine.

I don’t eat lamb and my partner is pescetarian, so we don’t opt for the winning seasonal curry (a rich dish of lamb, pumpkin and spices), but there’s no shortage to choose from on the main menu which reflects the cuisine of the many and diverse regions of India (the chefs themselves recruited from different areas, bringing their own distinct styles and specialities with them). Having opted for a tasting selection of king prawn dishes (garlic massala, Jalfreizi and Goan massala) and our favourite rice and vegetable accompaniments, a few moments later I learn from Juliana, Mr Ali’s daughter who manages the restaurant, that the chefs are preparing a bespoke version of their winning dish using prawns instead of lamb. For a fleeting moment I consider that we should probably cancel one of the dishes, mindful of volume. But my taste buds are already tingling in anticipation as we eye up the table next to us and the thought goes no further.

The generously sized king prawn puri starter is just the protein rush I need after a hectic day with no lunch. The prawns are beautifully cooked and bursting with flavour in the rich sauce, and you can really taste the freshly-ground spices – there’s no dumbing down here. Combined with a glass of good organic Rioja and the soothing rhythms of soft traditional Indian music, I can already feel the tension leaving my shoulders.

The main courses arrive served in the authentic, full-sized balti dishes they were cooked in, still sizzling and with all the flavours sealed in, not transferred to small dishes just for convenience. In terms of both taste and presentation there’s no better way of presenting Indian food, and I don’t know whether it’s just me but there’s something wonderfully decadent about eating ‘straight from the pan’.

While we inspect our miniature banquet, I temporarily forget all about our pumpkin dish. Moments later, there is no missing it. An exquisitely carved giant pumpkin processes through the restaurant and as it’s ceremoniously presented to the table, myself and all my fellow diners draw breath. The presentation is quite simply stunning. Decorated with painstakingly hand-carved stylized flowers and hand shapes, the hollowed-out squash opens to reveal its hidden secret, a deliciously warming curry of pumpkin and prawns in subtle spices. The dish is quite different from what I had imagined, the textures more interesting and complex, the pumpkin neither too soft nor too crunchy, satisfying and somehow soothing. As I savour the flavours, I can imagine how well the rich earthiness of the lamb must complement the sweetness of the pumpkin. I can also see it working equally well as a vegetarian dish, the pumpkin is robust and works so well with the spices, without being too fibrous or overly sweet. Although overshadowed in stature, our king prawn dishes are no less flavoursome and cooked to perfection, the variety of sauces with their contrasting flavours making for a delightful feast.

Given the vast heritage and tradition of Indian cuisine, how do you create an innovative dish that stays true to classic Indian recipes, and yet give it a modern twist, a dish that delights in creative presentation as much as in taste? I learn from Juliana that their lamb and pumpkin curry takes its inspiration from her favourite food as a child, made at home by her mother – like so many classic dishes the world over. Grown at nearby Roves Farm, the pumpkins are hand-picked, and the lamb is similarly Wiltshire-reared. So passionate are the team about locally sourced and produced food in fact, that the only ingredients which aren’t local are some of the special herbs and spices that come direct from Bangladesh.

Despite being faced with an undoubtedly difficult choice, it’s easy to see why the judges were unanimous in their decision to award the 2010 Tiffin Cup to Jewel in the Crown. Not only is the dish they have created stunning both in presentation and taste, their passion for food is palpable. The same care and attention bestowed on each pumpkin carving goes into their food and service.
So next week, take a visit to Swindon and celebrate National Curry Week and 200 years of Indian food in the UK in style. The Jewel in the Crown is more than worth the detour, and you may find yourself going back for many weeks to come.

Selection from the Menu:
King prawn puri £3.90, Seasonal lamb and pumpkin curry £9.95 approx (exact price tbc), King prawn Jalfrezi £10.50, Garlic king prawn massala £9.50, Goan king prawn massala £9.50, Aloo gobi £2.90, Mushroom rice £2.50, Spanish Gran Espiral Organic Rioja £11.95

Jewel in the Crown, 14/16 Victoria Road, Swindon, Wiltshire SN1 3AL, Tel: +44 (0)1793 522687, Email: jewel_inthecrown@yahoo.co.uk, www.jewelinthecrown.co.uk